Why we’re switching to IP65 Infrared for bathrooms
Ever notice how those standard bathroom “lamp warmers” always seem to die right when you need them most? It’s not bad luck. It’s just that they aren’t built for the steam and humidity of a real bathroom. That’s why we’ve been moving toward IP65-rated infrared elements. It’s not about making the room look fancy—it’s about keeping the electricity away from the water. What’s the deal with IP65? Basically, an IP65 rating means the housing is tight enough to keep out dust and can handle water jets hitting it from any direction. Think about your shower. You’ve got steam everywhere and the occasional stray splash. In a cheap heater, that moisture creeps into the terminals, causes corrosion, and eventually—pop—the unit burns out. We seal these units tight so the water never touches the live contacts. It just lasts longer. Period. The “Instant Warmth” factor Traditional heaters try to warm up the air. The problem? Air is slippery. The second you crack a window or open the door, all that warmth vanishes. Infrared is different. It sends out radiation that travels in a straight line. Instead of heating the air, it hits your skin or the floor directly. You feel the heat the moment you flip the switch. No more standing around shivering while you wait for the room to warm up. A few things to keep in mind We use high-purity quartz tubes because they can handle the shock of going from cold to scorching hot in seconds. But a heads-up:**they’re fragile.**If you’re installing a replacement and you drop it? It’s going to crack. Be gentle. Also, keep an eye on the reflectors. If they get coated in dust or soap scum, you’ll lose about 15-20% of your heat. A quick wipe-down makes a huge difference. The installation reality check If your wiring is up to date, swapping an old unit for an IP65 infrared system is usually a pretty simple drop-in job. But here is the important part: check your circuit breaker first. These high-wattage elements pull a lot of power. If your home’s wiring is old, you might trip the breaker the second you turn it on. Just make sure your wire gauge can actually handle the load before you get started.